Cat Amigurumi

Ravelry Project Page - Kitty

I have always admired the Japanese amigurumi patterns because they have wonderful character and detail. I also love that the patterns are written with stitch charts and lots of photos so you don't need to know Japanese in order to work the pattern. When my daughter Sarah and her husband visited Japan I requested a Japanese amigurumi book and she came back this delight - Cat Amigurumi by Eriko Teranishi

I made the sitting cat and used Knit Picks Palette yarn which is a fingering weight yarn so the cat is small and fits in the palm of my hand. It's the same yarn I used to crochet the wedding amigurumi and wedding hearts

The book has wonderful pictures on the making and assembling of the cats and it is also organized with a very clear and concise layout. I scanned and printed a copy of the charts and downloaded the Google Translate app which helped by verifying what I had already guessed.

She's so cute. I need to find just the right name for her! I'll be making other cats from this book soon.

#PinkOut

This is an easy peasy project with endless variations.

Materials:

Approximately 250 #8 beads

Size 10 thread

Size 10 crochet hook

Note: I am using a hook that is smaller than the one normally used for size 10 thread in order to get a tight stitch.

Construction:
1. String beads onto thread.
2. *Chain 2, bring up bead and chain, repeat from * until all beads have been crocheted.
3. Join into a circle.

Magic Yarn Project

The Magic Yarn Project is a wonderful program that creates comfortable and whimsical head coverings for children battling cancer. These tiara's are for their Disney princess wigs. The tiaras need to be about 8" in length and can't wrap around the head so I adapted and tweaked this Princess in Disguise pattern.

Here's the pattern for how I made them:

Supplies:

• Hook: Size F
• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver (Turqua, Gold, Real Teal, Light Periwinkle, Medium Purple)



Update 3/11/19: The Magic Yarn Project has compiled a complete list of yarn and colors for the tiaras here.

Abbreviations:

• ch - chain
• sl st - slip stitch
• sc - single crochet
• dc - double crochet
• tr - treble crochet
• st(s) - stitch(es)

Stitch explanations:
5dc cluster (worked in each of the 5 dc of row 1): Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, (yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, yo, pull through all 6 lps on hook, ch 1.

Picot: Ch 3, insert hook back into the center of the base st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.

Large picot: Ch 5, insert hook back into the center of the base st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.

Pattern:
Ch 40,
Row 1: 5 dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as ch2 + skip 2 sts), *skip 3 sts, 5 dc in next st,* repeat from *to* 8 times (for a total of 9 shells), skip 2 sts, dc in next st, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, 5dc cluster (makes 1 diamond), *ch 5, 5dc cluster*, repeat from *to* 8 times (for a total of 9 diamonds), dc in top of ch 2 of previous row, turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, (3 sc in next ch 5 space, picot, 3 sc in same ch 5 space) twice, 7 sc in next ch 5 space, (in next ch 5 space work 2 sc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc, 2 sc) twice, 3 sc in next ch 5 space, turn.

Row 4: Ch 6, sc in tr of previous row, ch 7, sc in next tr of previous row, ch 6, sl st in 3rd sc of 7 sc from previous row, turn.

Row 5: 4 sc in ch 6 space, picot, 4 sc in same ch 6, 4 sc in ch 7 space, large picot, 4 sc in same ch 7, 4 sc in next ch 6, picot, 4 sc in same ch 6, 4 sc in partial ch 5 from row 3, (3 sc in next ch 5, picot, 3 sc in same ch 5) twice, sl st in top of dc from row 2.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Add bling!**

**You don't have to bling the tiara's. If you'd rather just crochet and send them, the Magic Yarn Project will add the bling.

Wedding Heart - Pattern

This heart has an updated and modern look.

Wedding Heart

Materials
Knit Picks Palette - approximately 10 yards
Size B crochet hook
Fiberfill
Tapestry needle for finishing

Gauge
Gauge is not important for this project. Using the listed materials, my hearts measured approximately 2.5" x 2.5" but just about any size heart can be achieved by adjusting the yarn and hook size.

Stitch Explanation

sc = single crochet

dec = decrease

Regular dec = (insert hook through both legs of the next stitch, yo and draw the yarn through the stitch) twice, yo, and draw yarn through all 3 loops on the hook.

Work even = single crochet in each stitch around.

Notes

1. There are two crochet techniques needed to make this heart look its best - the magic circle and the invisible decrease.

My favorite tutorial for the magic circle:

My favorite tutorial for the invisible decrease:

2. All work is done in a spiral. Do not end rounds by joining with a slip stitch.

3. Fasten down the beginning threads of the humps by working over them when you begin. You can leave the tails to help with the stuffing or trim them.

Heart Humps - Make 2
Round 1 - Work 4 sc's into a magic circle. Mark first sc as beginning of round. (4)
Round 2 - 2 sc in each sc around. (8)
Round 3 - (Sc in next st , 2 sc in next st) repeat around. (12)
Round 4 - (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) repeat around. (14)
Round 5 - Work even.
Round 6 - Work even.
Round 7 - Work even.
Fasten off after finishing first hump (leave a long tail which will be used to close the heart). Do not fasten off the second hump and continue working:

Heart Body
Round 8 - Join the second hump to the first by single crocheting in each of the 14 sts of the first hump (begin where you fastened off) and then single crochet in each stitch of the second hump. You now have 28 stitches in one round to begin the heart body. There will be a gap in the middle, between the two humps, which is where the heart will be stuffed.
Round 9 - Work even. (28)
Round 10 - (Sc in next 5 sts, invisible dec) repeat around. (24)
Round 11 - (Sc in next 4 sts, invisible dec) repeat around. (20)
Round 12 - (Sc in next 3 sts, invisible dec) repeat around. (16)
Round 13 - (Sc in next 2 sts, invisible dec) repeat around. (12)
Round 14 - (Sc in next st, invisible dec) repeat around. (8)
Round 15 - (Sc in next 2 sts,invisible dec) repeat around. (6)
Round 16 - (Regular dec) repeat around. (3)

Fasten off. Stuff heart. Close hole and weave in ends.

Photo credit:ARBR Pictures

Wedding Amigurumi

Photo credit:ARBR Pictures

Sarah wanted amigurumi wedding cake toppers** for her wedding and asked if I could make them. Yes! I would love to!! She showed me a picture of the style she was looking for and I started searching my pattern collection, library books and the internet looking for inspiration about how to make them. I found the basic building block with this pattern for a Amigurumi Kokeshi Doll.

I made remarkably few changes to the pattern. I omitted the arms, hands and obi, as well as a few rows on the base. I added a ruffle to the bottom of the dress and side bangs on the hair. I also resized the hair bun to be smaller and positioned it further back on the head. That was all it took for the bride. The groom was exactly the same but without the ruffle, bangs and bun and with the addition of a bow tie.

The prototype was worked using size 10 crochet cotton thread and that looked fine and cute but Sarah was looking for something slightly bigger with a softer stitch definition, so I tried Knit Picks Palette which is a 100% wool fingering weight yarn and we were both very happy with the results.

Side-by-side comparison of versions.
Crochet cotton (left) and wool (right)

Sarah has two cats, Stevie and Olive, who are doted on by her and her fiancé. The creation of the bride and groom toppers was going so well she asked if I would also consider making two cats. Of course I would, they're family!

Cats are not well represented in the amigurumi world, maybe because it's hard to translate that "we cats are superior to humans" attitude they have, but Sarah found and really liked this pattern for Pusheen the Cat.

I ordered a new batch of yarn colors in the shades of Stevie and Olive and got busy. Other than different colors, the only changes to the pattern were adding one extra row to the feet and making one cat as a mirror image.

The final detail to the wedding cake topper ensemble is a heart and that project morphed into an even bigger one which has its own blog post - Wedding Heart.

Stevie checks out his amigurumi self.

Photo credit: ARBR Pictures

  Ravelry Project Page - Bride and Groom Amigurumi
  Ravelry Project Page - Stevie & Olive

**Pie and cookies were the desserts for the wedding so Sarah designed and made a special cake form to display everything.

Knit Flower

It's taken me a very long time to make the knitted version of my crochet flower but here it finally is:

Step 1: Starting with a 12" or longer tail, cast on 3 stitches and work 22" of i-cord using a knitting spool or double pointed needles.

Step 2: K1, work a bobble stitch (How to Knit a Bobble Stitch), K1.

Step 3: Bind off, leaving a 12" or longer tail.

Step 4: Keeping the bobble unattached and out of the way, fold the length of i-cord like a fan into five petals, arrange into a flower shape and using the starting tail, stitch together.

Step 5: Position bobble over the center of the flower and using the yarn from the end of the bobble, tack down.

Looks almost identical to the crocheted version. Now you can enjoy it both ways!

Crochet Flower pattern

A Wedding Present Afghan

My niece got married this summer and a wedding is an afghan giving event! As soon as I heard the news I scoured through all of my saved blanket patterns and found one that I've been wanting to make for a long time --Floral Cables by Diane Poellot from the book Top Technique & Special Stitch Afghans.

The pattern was written for worsted weight yarn but when I was shopping for the yarn the two that spoke to me were Lion Brand Heartland (an aran weight yarn) and Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (a bulky weight yarn). Could I make these two completely different yarns work for this pattern? The only way to tell was to buy the yarn and give it a try!

After working a few samples I felt confident that they were going to be compatible but the pattern would need a few adjustments. In some areas it took a couple of tries to make things right (and a fair amount of ripping back) but ultimately I was able to tweak the pattern and make the two weights of yarn work.

The result is spectacular and I may very well be making this afghan again for me! I love how using the heavier weight yarn not only provides the contrasting color but also "pops" the details of the cables and flowers.

Here are the most important changes I made:

1. The pattern called for an I hook but after experimentation I settled on a K hook for both weights. The K hook is the recommended size for the Tweed Stripe yarn but I did make an effort to crochet tightly when working with it. The Heartland yarn is listed on Ravelry as an Aran weight yarn but it feels like a lightweight worsted (I found it similar to Caron Simply Soft) however, it worked well with the Tweed Stripes using the K hook.

2. I struggled with the given instructions for the star stitch so I switched to this DROPS version (including using a half double crochet (hdc) instead of a single crochet). It took a few attempts to make sure that the "stars" aligned because if a hdc was forgotten or the star stitch was incorrectly executed they didn't line up in the next row.

3. There were a couple of places where I added additional rows to balance the yarn weight differences:

I repeated row 4 of the center panel two more times.

I added a row of single crochets between rows 6 and 7 of the cable panel to balance the edges.

4. The pattern for the cables needed to be rewritten to accommodate the bulky weight of the Tweed Stripes and got changed to:

Ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st. TURN, work 3 sc in ch-2 space just made, TURN, holding cable to the front, sc in each of 2 skipped sc on last row.

Ravelry Project Page - Floral Cables Afghan
5. I worked three rows of single crochet for the border but turned each row (rather than the usual way of working in a round) to achieve the same look as the background behind the flowers.

Red Scarf Project - Foster Care to Success

The Foster Care to Success Red Scarf Project has a number of programs which provide assistance to college bound foster youth. One of them, The Red Scarf Project, gives students a Valentine’s Day care package that includes a handmade red scarf. Knitters and crocheters from the faculty, staff and students of Framingham State University recently sent a donation with over a dozen scarves and the package included two scarves that I made.

Ravelry Project Page - Red Scarf Project - Scarf #1

Yarn: 2 skeins of Lion Brand Heartland - Redwood
Needle size: US 10.5
Pattern: Cast on 35 stitches. Work Mistaken Rib pattern.

Ravelry Project Page - Red Scarf Project - Scarf #2

Yarn: 2 skeins of Lion Brand Heartland - Redwood
Hook size: L (8.0 mm)
Pattern: Chain 33. I used the Corded Shells pattern (#211) from 280 Crochet Shell Patterns by Darla Sims but any crocheted shell pattern would work just as well.

Candy Cane Cover

I like to make and give little holiday/seasonal gifts for friends and coworkers; so this year I designed a candy cane cover that fits the bill perfectly. There was also the added bonus that they are very quick and easy to make.

Materials:

Lion Brand Heartland yarn - Redwood

Sulky Holoshimmer thread - (silver #6001)

Crochet hook, size G (4.0 mm)

Finishing Materials:

6"-7" Candy canes

3/8" Silver ribbon

Tapestry needle

Sissors

Notes:

The gauge is not important to overall size

Work the stitches holding the yarn and thread together as one.

Candy Cane Pattern:
Row 1: Ch 33; dc in 4th chain from hook (first 3 chains count as dc), [ch1, skip next ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch] 4 times, (ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch) 10 times, dc in last ch. (21 dc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same space, * [ch 1 (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch1 space], (ch 1, sc) in next ch1 space* repeat from * to * 9 times ending by skipping dc and sc in last dc.

Row 3: *Ch 3, sl st in next ch 1 space*, repeat from * to * around ending with sc in last st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:

Thread candy cane through row 1.

Cut 9" of ribbon and tie a Martha's favorite bow where desired.

Itty Bitty Monkey

Cute little monkey! She/he (I haven't decided which yet) turned out really well but I had to rewrite most of the pattern in order to use the most important amigurumi crochet technique - the magic circle.

Reading through a pattern before I start working allows me to get an idea of how the project is going to be put together and to interpret any directions I may not understand. The instructions for this pattern were clear and easy to follow but I immediately noticed that it did not use the magic circle to start any of the pieces. The magic circle is a clean way to start crocheting in a circle and is the preferred method used in amigurumi. Even worse, the instructions for the arms, legs and body started at the widest areas and ended by narrowing to a few stitches which were finished off by gathering them together. You can never ever make gathered crochet stitches look as neat and clean as starting with a magic circle.

So before I started crocheting the Itty Bitty Monkey I went through the entire pattern and rewrote the necessary sections to start with a magic circle.

The ears and tail were both fine as written and needed no change.

The head and snout directions were also fine as written but just needed to start with the magic circle.

The arms, legs and body patterns had to be completely rewritten because starting with a magic circle meant the pieces were now being worked in the opposite direction from the written pattern.

The pattern book Itty Bitty Animals By Sheila Leslie is available at Annie's ePatterns Central and my Ravelry project page for the Itty Bitty Monkey is here.

The Itty Bitty Monkey is just the thing for this internet meme!